Mera and Island Peak Climbing

Mera and Island Peak Climbing

Monday, February 20, 2023

Mera peak Climbing is one of the best peak climbing in the Everest Region of Nepal. Both Mera peak and Island Peak are part of Three Peak Climbing in the Everest Region of Nepal. During these peak climbing in Nepal, one can visit the beautiful Namche Bazaar in the Everest Region of Nepal. So, here in this article, we will discuss the Mera and Island Peak Climbing. 

Nepal is a dream for trekkers and climbers alike, home to 8 of the 14 eight-thousanders and 326 climbing peaks. Every year, the Nepal Himalayas draws thousands of experienced climbers, novice climbers, and ardent trekkers. Expeditions for mountaineering are permitted on 326 mountains in Nepal. The Nepal Mountaineering Association has designated 33 of them as hiking peaks (NMA). Speaking of trekking summits, Mera Peak and Island Peak are unquestionably everyone’s favorites.

The two most well-known trekking peaks in Nepal’s Himalayas are Mera and Island Peaks. The debate between Mera Peak and Island Peak is raging among novice climbers who wish to start out on the mountains. For new climbers, deciding between Mera Peak and Island Peak might be challenging. And it is for this reason that we have written this blog detailing how Mera Peak and Island Peak differ from one another. This blog will assist you in selecting the ideal peak for your upcoming climbing expedition.

Mera Peak in Nepal

At 6,476 meters, Mera Mountain is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. Since Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing became the first climbers to reach the summit of Mera Central (6,461 meters) on May 20, 1953, this mountain has drawn thousands of climbers, particularly inexperienced ones. The climbing route includes a challenging ascent and high-altitude glacier walking.

This peak is one of the most sought-after climbing peaks by novice climbers due to the fact that just fundamental mountaineering abilities are needed to overcome the altitude. A climb up Mera Peak rewards climbers with breath-taking vistas of nearby peaks including Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, and Everest.

Highlights Of Mera Peak Climbing

  • The highest trekking mountain in Nepal is Mera Peak.
  • The Mera Peak Climbing tour allows you to visit the isolated Hinku Valley.
  • From the top of Mera Peak, you can see five of the world’s tallest mountains over 8000 meters, including Cho Oyu (8,201 meters), Lhotse (8,516 meters), Everest (8,848 meters), Kanchenjunga (8,586 meters), and Makalu (8,463m)
  • Technically speaking, climbing Mera Peak is a simple ascent that doesn’t call for any unique climbing techniques.
  • On the morning of the summit, climbers awaken at 2 am, eat a small breakfast, and prepare for the summit push. 

Summit of Mera Peak

Mount Everest (8,848m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), and Cho Oyu (8,201m) are five of the world’s highest summits over 8,000m that can be seen from Mera Peak, as well as numerous other peaks in the Khumbu region.

Island Peak in Nepal

Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten, a Swiss chemist and mountaineer, made the first ascent of Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, the second-highest trekking peak in Nepal, in 1956. You must hike from Lukla all the way to Chukkung, spend one or two nights at Island Peak Base Camp at 5087m, then climb to High Camp and the summit to complete the ascent of Island Peak.

Rock stairs, glaciers, and ice slopes present some difficulty above the base camp. Due to the high rising, the Island peak’s summit portion requires some technical climbing. Views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Changtse, Ama Dablam, and neighboring peaks are breathtaking from the peak’s summit. 

Highlights of Island Peak Climbing

  • The second-highest trekking peak is Island Peak.
  • The Island Peak Climbing route allows you to cross Kongma La, a high mountain pass, and travel across the Lhotse glacier.
  • The highlight of this expedition will be the close-up views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Changtse, Ama Dablam, and neighboring peaks from the peak.
  • The relatively technical upper phase of the trek incorporates challenging ice climbs.
  • On summit day, climbers get up at one in the morning, eat a quick breakfast, and then make their way up ice slopes to the summit ridge. 

Summit of Island peak

From the summit of Island Peak, you can see the massive peaks of Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m), and Lhotse Shar (8,383m), which form a semicircle to the north. The captivating 360-degree panoramas of Ama Dablam in the south, and Baruntse, and Makalu (8,475m) in the east are breathtaking. The view will be obscured by the enormous wall of Mt. Lhotse above the peak, which is only ten kilometers away to the north. 

Mera Peak And Island Peak

Two well-known trekking summits are Island Peak and Mera Peak, according to the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). 7,000-meter or less trekking peaks like Island Peak or Mera Peak call for little to no technical climbing expertise. Geographically speaking, a mountain chain divides Mera Peak and Island Peak from one another.

Both peaks are relatively less difficult and have clear ascent paths. Mera Peak stands tall at 6,476 meters, while Island Peak rises to a height of 6,189 meters. Mera Peak (Mera Central) was first scaled by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing in 1953, while the southwest summit of Island Peak was first scaled in 1953, which is a coincidence similarity between the two summits. However, Island Peak’s main peak was reached in 1956.

Difficulties of Mera and Island peak

Despite being taller than Island Peak, Mera Peak is easier to reach than Island Peak. Comparatively speaking, Mera Peak presents less difficulty than Island Peak. One tough stretch of Island Peak winds through ice slopes, glaciers, and crevasses. In terms of climbing requirements, Island Peak necessitates the use of fixed ropes that have been set up for the summit ridge. 

Mera Peak, on the other hand, is thought to be a technically simple ascent. Mera Peak Climbing, on the other hand, is simple yet also makes good use of fixed rope. These two summits are accessible to climbers with little to no prior climbing expertise. However, climbers must be prepared for a challenging approach to the summit ridge utilizing a fixed rope over a crevasse and ice slopes when undertaking the Island Peak Climb. 

Route for Mera peak and Island Peak

Prior to ascending the summit, climbers must journey for nearly a week to the 5,780m Mera Peak High Camp. Through verdant jungle and secluded valleys, the walking trail extends to Hinku Valley. The trail goes on from Lukla to Hinku Valley. The main resting areas before Mera High Camp are Paiya, Kothe, Panggom, Thankak, and Khare. From the camp, gradually climb to the peak using jumars and a fixed rope. The hike and climb up Mera Peak can be completed in roughly 18 days. 

A superb fusion of a mountaineering trip and trekking can be found in the Island Peak climbing program. The route takes the traditional Everest Base Camp Trek route and adds a climbing path to High Camp and ultimately the summit. In comparison to climbing Mera Peak, the summit stage of this climb involves a vigorous rise and is therefore a little more difficult and technical. Island Peak ascent takes place over the course of 14 days. Additionally, if you want to hike to Kala Patthar and Everest Base Camp, the program is extended to 18 or 19 days. 

Best time for Mera and Island Peak Climbing

Mera Peak and Island Peak are thought to be best scaled in the spring and fall. The best times to ascend the top are in late April, or early May, as well as in September, October, and November. And if you want us to be more specific, the ideal months for a climbing excursion are October and May. 

Mountaineering is seen as being out of season during the winter and monsoon. Despite this, some climbers attempt to reach the summit during the winter. The disadvantages of climbing in the off-season include the need to be prepared for unforeseen events that are associated with adverse weather, such as heavy snowfall, the potential for aircraft delays and cancellations, and decreased visibility. 

Different Permits to climb Mera Peak

You must have the following licenses in order to climb Mera Peak:

Entry Permit for Makalu Barun National Park

The Makalu Barun National Park Permit can be picked up in Kothe, Kathmandu, Bhrikutimandap, or the Tourist Service Center. This license costs NRs. 3,000 for foreigners and NRs each. for climbers from SAARC nations, 1500 per person. 


  • If you choose to continue your trek to Namche Bazaar through Amphu Lapcha Pass after ascending Mera Peak, you must pay the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Fee of Rs. 2000 per person and the Khumbu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit of Rs. 2000. (NRs. 3000 per person).
  • You must purchase a Gaurishanker Conservation Area Project Entry Permit, which costs NRs. 2000 per person, if you are trekking from Jiri.

Permit for Climbing Mera Peak

The cost of a Mera Peak Climbing Permit varies depending on the season; different seasons require varying prices for the permits.

  • March through May: USD 250 per person
  • Fall (September to November): 125 dollars per person
  • Winter: USD 70 per person from December to February
  • Summertime (June to August): USD 70 per individual

Permits for Island Peak Climbing

Climbing the Island Peak or trekking to the peak is really awesome but one will need some permits. therefore, here in this article, we will discuss what are some of the import permits for Island Peak Climbing. 

Permits for Climbing Island Peak

The price of an Island Peak Climbing Permit changes depending on the season, just like the Mera Peak Climbing Permit does.

  • March through May: USD 250 per person
  • Fall (September to November): 125 dollars per person
  • Winter: USD 70 per person from December to February
  • Summertime (June to August): USD 70 per individual

The price to climb Mera Peak and Island Peak

Given that numerous elements are at play, the cost of climbing Mera Peak or Island Peak may differ from company to company. The Mera Peak Climbing and Island Peak Climbing prices are influenced by a number of factors, including the route, duration of the expedition, permits, and lodging. Additionally, the cost of flights as well as gear and equipment goes toward the overall cost of climbing. 

These two summits cost about the same to climb, typically between US$2000 and US$4000. However, some businesses might tempt you with inexpensive pricing, but there’s a good probability that you might have to make concessions, and this could be harmful given the experience of climbing.


Both peaks are ideal for climbers looking to learn more about mountaineering and develop their climbing techniques. Popular high-altitude trekking peaks for climbers with little to no mountaineering experience are Mera Peak and Island Peak. You can ascend both peaks if you are in reasonable physical and mental health. Technically speaking, Island Peak is more difficult and complicated than Mera Peak. 


If you want to know anything regarding the trip or any other issue, please feel free to ask us